Nepal Rocks

Delhi turned out to be pretty cool, once we'd changed rooms to get away from the resident mice. Old Delhi was very similar to the rest of India, but New Delhi was suprisingly different. Wide roads, new builings, clean and quiet - may have had something to do with preparations for Republic Day. Big military parades, air force fly-bys... all being held on the day we left.

But it didn't matter, because Nepal rocks! Kathmandu is a very laid back city, even in the main touristy area. We're warmer too, having bought replica North Face jackets, and woolly hats and gloves. (Photos of Kate to follow). The temples here are amazing and there are bars with beer and live bands playing rock covers - and you know how we like rock cover bands!

Had a wander round the city, saw Durbar Square and the many temples along the way (including a shrine to the god of toothaches), and also the Nepali Living Goddess.

Hiring bikes tomorrow and heading for the Monkey Temple (lots of monkeys, apparently), then moving onto Pokhara for a bit of trekking in the mountains... maybe.

India's not supposed to be cold!

It's been a very cold week. After leaving Jaipur, we went to Sawai Madhopur, where there is a tiger reserve called Ranthambore National Park. The good news is that we saw a tiger. The bad news was that we were so cold, we couldn't feel our toes! There was a proper frost and Paul had made me unpack my jeans before we set off. He only let me bring 2 jumpers too!

From there, we went to Agra. We went to see the Taj Mahal at sunrise and got there while it was still dark. The Taj was as beautiful as you would imagine, but again, I felt like my toes had fallen off.

We're in Delhi now and it is a bit warmer. However, we fly to Nepal tomorrow and are planning to do some trekking in the Himalayas. Think we're going to have to buy some big coats, socks, jumpers, hats, gloves and scarfs!!

Kite Fighting in Jaipur

After a not very promising start to Jaipur, we've grown to really like it here and have had a great time. It's taken us a long time to get used to the busy-ness of India, but I think we've got it now!! The people here are really friendly and hospitable, whether they are trying to get your money or not. We've found that once the bargaining is over, people are still really lovely and will do their best to help you out if you're stuck.

They have recently had a kite festival in Jaipur, which we missed by 2 days. There are still loads of kites around, though - mainly stuck in trees! We decided to buy one and ended up with 3 for 2 rupees (glass string for 20rs!). Our attempts to fly it were rubbish, but some kids helped us (and laughed at us) and then managed to cut the string of our kite with theirs. Turns out, they don't just fly kites here, but fight with them. After losing two kites in 10 minutes, we skulked off with our last one (to lots of laughter!).

Yesterday, we went to the Amber Fort which was very impressive. We decided to do a 7km trek to another fort. It was obviously hard work and at one point we were chased by a big monkey. It was worth it for the view of the city at sunset, though... and the beer that went with it. Luckily we met a nice Kiwi guy who was able to show us a quicker, monkey free way back down to the city.

We're moving onto Ranthambore Tiger Reserve tomorrow, which will be cool, but we're both unexpectedly sad to be leaving Jaipur.

Kids and Camels (Jodhpur and Jaisalmer)

Our first Indian bus journey took us to Jodhpur, famous for a big fort. We'll remember it most for the children, who bullied us constantly: saying "What's your name?... one penny, one rupee, one school pen?" and slapping us if we wouldn't shake their hands. At one point we had 10 children following us, chanting "Hello!", and pinching our bums!

But the fort in Jodphur was impressive, great views over the annoying children below. Food wasn't so great, and both spent a day inside with dodgy stomachs - at least the kids couldn't find us.

Everything calmed down once we reached Jaisalmer. Small place, much quieter and less hassle. We spent two days on safari on the back of a camel. Fun, for a while, but a once in a lifetime experience... we're never doing it again. We're still aching two days later. Worth it though, great sand dunes, sunsets and food cooked on an open fire, which Kate collected the wood for. We both bought Camel leather bags as souveniers (it's goat leather really).

We're now in Jaipur. Not great to be in a big city again, but we're getting used to it. Off to see more forts tomorrow... but hopefully no more kids or camels.

Udaipur

We are now in Udaipur, which is much nicer than Mumbai in all ways! It's still really busy, but it is much smaller and we've met some really friendly people. The train journey here was ridiculously long and slow (22 hours at a snail pace), but we shared a carriage with a really nice Indian couple who kept giving us food and not taking 'no thank you' for an answer!!

Udaipur is supposed to be the Venice of India. It has around 5 lakes and some amazing palaces (one is on top of a mountain and two in the middle of a lake). The lakes and palaces are beautiful, but the city is still crazy. As well as cars and buses, the traffic also consists of motor rickshaws, bicycles, donkeys, camels and elephants!!! Our first rickshaw experience with our big back packs was pretty hairy!! Not managed to get on an elephant, yet, though.

Most people who have spoken to us have wanted to know our opinion on the cricket outrage and want to make sure we are not Australian!

Last day in Mumbai

Time to move onto our next stop - ready for it too. 20 million people live in Mumbai, and just half a million in Udaipur... hopefully will be a bit quieter!

Saw our first Bollywood movie last night, all 3 hours of it. Great fun though, just about followed the plot. Was sat in the lobby afterwards, and had a conversation with two Indian guys:
Them: Hello
Me: Hi
Them: (laugh)
Me: Are you here to see "Welcome"
Them: Yes
Me: I've just seen it, it's very good!
Them: (more laughs)
Them: Speak Hindi?
Me: Hindi? No
Them: (laughed me out of the cinema)

Treated myself to a haircut today (best 50p I've spent) while Kate read Hello and OK.
Off for a wander before our 20 hour train journey. Woo hoo!

First stop Mumbai

Flight to India was great. We were upgraded to business class (thanks James!) - bed seats, fine wines, champagne, free socks! So we weren't quite ready for the mayhem in Mumbai. A scary taxi ride got us to the hotel - apparently beeping helps squeeze the car through gaps and around pedestrians, goats and cows.
Hotel is ok - basic, noisy, but could be worse.

Fi and Paul are also staying at the hotel (in a nice air conditioned room - dammit), and we've spent a great couple of days exploring, we've seen the cave temples at Elephanta Island, the Prince of Wales museum, and practiced bargaining at markets. Kate's already spending.

We've got a couple more days here, before our long train journey north, but Fi and Paul are leaving today - not sure what we'll do without them!